MOUNT KILIMANJARO

This is the land of myth and legend, and of ancient geological forces that are hard to comprehend today. Although Kilimanjaro and Meru are relatively 'young' mountains (about 750,000 years old), Kilimanjaro in particular features heavily in local mythology. One of these legends, told by the Chagga people who live on the slopes around Moshi, has it that an ancient chief called, Mawenzi, got his younger brother, Kibo, (both names of two of Kili's peaks) to fetch him coals from a mighty fire to light his pipe – a possible reference to volcanic activity in the Stone Age.

Kilimanjaro was described by the ancient Greeks as "the great snow mountain" and by Fernandes de Encisco, the 15th century Portuguese geographer, as "the Ethiopian Mount Olympus". The first modern European to see the mountain peaks was a German missionary, Johannes Rebmann, on May 11, 1848. His reports of snow on the equator were ridiculed, with elaborate theories produced to explain away the white stuff as quartz, limestone and crystal. Kili was summitted for the first recorded time on October 5, 1899, by the German geographer Hans Ludwig Meyer and the Austrian mountaineer Ludwig Purtscheller.

Whether or not you have ever had the yen to climb big mountains, or even see any sense in it, climbing Mount Kilimanjaro is an absolute must for anyone who has the time, the money and the physical fitness. The highest mountain in Africa (5,895 metres) and the tallest free-standing volcano in the world, Kilimanjaro has tantalised and intrigued since the first organised ascent by Hans Meyer in 1889. It took Meyer six weeks to reach the summit, but these days it is usually done in six or seven days, five if you’re pushing the pace. And although people talk about having "climbed" Kilimanjaro, the vast majority of routes are hiking routes with no technical climbing involved at all.

The MARANGU Route is the one favoured by most novices and tour operators, and starts at the Marangu park entrance gate. Dubbed the "Coca Cola" route, this is the most comfortable of the routes, with formal huts and beds, large communal dining areas and even solar lighting in some huts. Most hikers have porters to carry their bags and guides to show them the way, but even so, never underestimate the final slog to the peak at Uhuru. Most parties leave Kibo Hut for the final assault just after midnight, summitting at sunrise and descending before cloud obscures the view. The MACHAME Route is the more scenic but tougher of the two main routes. Starting at Machame village, it winds through stunning tropical forest before emerging into the higher Afro-Alpine sections. There are no functioning huts on this route, so all camping is in tents. For climbers wanting some technical climbing, and for experienced outdoors people, this is the better route, as there are side options available en route. But if you prefer home comforts (such as they are) you should opt for the Marangu Route.

WEATHER: It is best to avoid the rainy seasons (April to June and November/December) as they are often characterised by very heavy snowfalls. Just after the end of the rains is most scenic time to go.

HEALTH: Don’t be fooled - climbing Kili is damn hard. Although it is technically a hike, the rarefied air at high altitude makes the last day’s ascent to Uhuru Peak something of a nightmare. Nearly half of those who attempt Kili don’t make it to the top. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is the thing that gets most climbers who don’t make it, and in rare cases this can lead to pulmonary or cerebral oedema, which can be fatal. The golden rule on Kili is to spend as much time acclimatising as possible (flying from Johannesburg or Nairobi already gives an edge over those living at the coast). Take things slowly, drink lots of fluids, take plenty of glucose, avoid alcohol and, if necessary, carry a diuretic like Diamox to alleviate the symptoms. If you start falling prey to AMS, descend, fast.

EQUIPMENT: On good days, the temperatures on the summit average around minus 20ºc, on bad days the wind chill factor is of Arctic proportions. The chances of having to summit in a blizzard are fairly good year-round. Don’t try and get away with that old anorak you’ve had lying around for years - invest in good Gore-Tex or similar outer clothing, and remember the old mountaineer’s trick: layering. Wear layers of light clothing made of the newish wunder-fabrics like polypropylene, polartec, polarfleece, pertex and microtex. Good boots are essential, and don’t forget sunglasses or ski goggles. Ski poles are very useful for the long slogs, and don’t forget a really warm beanie hat and gloves. Your tour operator should provide you with a detailed list of clothing (and if you are not a regular hiker, try and borrow from a friend – this stuff is hellishly expensive. The better tour companies will rent you equipment in good condition at reasonable prices.)