Now we get really obscure. Lake Rukwa (two lakes in the dry season) borders onto the Uwanda Game Reserve, and this writer has never met any other traveller who has been there. The only way to get there is with your own vehicle or public transport and you need to be totally self-sufficient. Directions are simple. Take the northern road from Mbeya to Katavi, or the southern route to Sumbawanga, and along the way you’ll encounter both destinations. The chief reason for going there is the incredible birdlife, and the chance to see weird genetic mutations that have thrown up polka dot zebras and albino giraffes. You might also see the very rare puku (kobu vardoni). If you ever get there, send me a postcard!